Nieded or jaki-ed or ed (clothing mat)

Nieded or jaki-ed or ed (clothing mat)

Nieded or jaki-ed or ed (clothing mat)
maan̄ (pandanus leaves)
jab (kōm̗m̗an jān kilin l̗o̗) (hibiscus fiber)
atat (burbark)
wunmaan (pandanus cultigen)
ED# 14934
Accessioned March 2017. Gift of Hawai’i Handweavers’ Hui.

Nieded (jaki-ed; ed) in rej kōjerbale n̄an nuknuk, el̗aptata kōrā ro rej kōn̗ak ruo nieded. Rej kōn̗ak juon itum̗aan, im kōn̗ak eo kein karuo itulik im lukwōje itum̗aan. Innām rej kan̄ūrn̄ūr bwe nieded kein ren dāpdep ippān doon kōn kan̄ūrn̄ūr eo (lale #14653). Nieded in ej kōm̗m̗an jān maan̄ (em̗ōj iiaake, errare kab innini), jab eo (jān kilin l̗o̗), kab kilin atat eo. Rej m̗oktata wekari kōn jōbōd bwe ren jokkun wōt juon depakpakier. Raidik, konke rōpedan̄ōtn̄ōt im pidodo n̄an konaki. Innām maan̄ ko, jab ko, im atata ko rej jekoti ippān doon ilo aer ijjino jān jabōn im rej āji l̗o̗k n̄an iol̗apl̗ap. Innām rej kab pirōki maan̄ ko iol̗ap in nieded eo. L̗ōmān aer āj rej kobaiki ippān doon im ukōti jān doon. Rej kōwawaik juon ioon juon, im rej kōjāl juon bwe en jāl anmiin̄ ak anmo̗o̗n jan ri-amim̗ōn̗o eo ak eo juon ej jāl m̗aan l̗o̗k jān ri-amim̗ōn̗o eo. Rej kōm̗m̗an bwe maan̄ ko ruo ren oktak jān doon ilo iien āj. Rej jino āje m̗aanl̗o̗k.

Annan̄ ko ilo nieded in rej aji ikotaan doon ijeko rokkar bwe ren pad ie ilo torerein. Ewōr l̗alem kain kadkad ko me ewōr mel̗el̗eier ilo jaki kein. Eo kein kajuon ej l̗ōl̗ō im ej jarjar tok jān maron̄ ko joleti jān kōrā ro jined. Eo juon, joor, ej lukkuun kwal̗o̗k aorōk in ri-tōl ro ilo m̗anit āinwōt irooj im al̗ap ro. Tiltil eo ej kwal̗o̗k im kōmel̗el̗eik ke ri-āj eo ej jolete maron̄ eo jān jemān. In̄in̄ eo ej kallikkar aorōk in kadkad eo ikōtaan nukwin ko an jinen im jemān ri-āj eo. Ālikatata bokwōj ej mel̗el̗ein ineem̗m̗an im jokāne eo ibwiljin aolep ro rej uwaan bwij eo.

**Jouj im keememej, jaki ko rāinjuon jān doon im apar ko ijeko annan̄ ko rej wal̗o̗k ie rej bar āinjuon jān doon pedped wōt ioon ri-āj eo kab armej eo an jaki in.

The nieded (jaki-ed; ed) is used as clothing, especially for women, who wear two nieded. One is placed in the front, and the second is placed in the back to be wrapped in the front. Then they put on a traditional belt to hold the two nieded in place (see #14563). This nieded is made from processed pandanus leaves (thorns removed, warmed over a fire, and pounded to soften), hibiscus fiber (from the hibiscus bark), and burbark. First the fibers are all cut in equal widths using the pandanus leaf stripper. They are cut thin, so that they are pliable and flexible when worn. The pandanus, hibiscus, and burbark fibers are plaited together starting from the elaborate edges; then these are sewn onto the center. The plaiting is done by placing over-one, under-one and facing left or right and away from the weaver. This is the pattern that will then be followed.

The design motifs fall into border bands that are carefully placed in the edges of the mat. There are five differing relationships denoted in the mats. The first is the land rights inherited from the mother, l̗ōl̗ō. Another band, the joor, stresses the importance of the irooj (chief) and the alap (steward; clan head member). The tiltil band notes whether the weaver  inherits land rights through their father. In̄in̄ denotes the special relationship between the lineages of the parents. Finally the bo̗kwōj describes the harmony and protection among the members of the clan.

**Please note, different mats display different bands depending on the weaver and the person made for.

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